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LOS ANGELES (CNN) — The world of film and high fashion have been intertwined for a long time. Whether it’s through dress design, red carpet fashion moments or celebrity-led campaigns, the two industries have forged a strong symbiotic relationship. That’s why the peppy and playful Chanel 2023/24 runway show at Paramount Studios in Los Angeles on Tuesday night made perfect sense.

“Fashion and cinema together lead us to an active dream,” says the show, “We are fed with a strong invitation to step into the spotlight and never leave the dance floor.”

Model Daphne Groeneveld walks the Chanel 2023/24 Cruise runway show.

The show featured youthful Chanel classics, mixing and matching as well as traditional (and cultural) reference points.

But there is also a personal connection between the French fashion house and Hollywood. In the year After the death of Karl Lagerfeld in 2019, Virginie Viard, the creative director of Chanel, worked in fashion design at the beginning of her career. Coco Chanel herself He was persuaded to come to Hollywood in 1931 by film producer Samuel Goldwyn so that his films’ fashions would not look outdated by the time they were released. She has over half a dozen costume design credits under her belt.

The runway show, which served as Viard’s “Ode to the City of Angels,” marked Chanel’s return to Los Angeles after nearly 16 years. (In 2007, Lagerfeld presented his 2008 Cruise collection in a hangar at the Santa Monica Airport. Models walked from two Challenger 601 planes onto the real runway, with contemporary It Girls – Lindsay Lohan, Mischa Barton and Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen; with others – observed.)

Models walk during the Chanel 2007 Resort runway show in Santa Monica, California.

A lot has changed in the years between the LA of the late aughts and the LA of today. While the city has always been the epicenter of American celebrity culture, its lights have changed — or at least their playing field has expanded. Today’s fashion influencers are darlings of social media and subcultures, just like actresses and socialites, fans who span the globe and the internet. Luxury brands like Chanel have learned to embrace that and still stay true to their heritage, reinventing aesthetics to celebrate the old and the new, drawing from the past while looking to the future.

The breadth of Golden State tropes featured in the show and the costumes were evidence of the play's fusion, mixing trends from the 1930s to the 80s and today.

In his collection, he paired a paparazzi-baiting mini dress with jazzy socks, and showed off a playful take on a classic Chanel twinset with acid wash denim shorts.

But as much as our definition of celebrity has evolved, the glamor and aspiration most closely associated with fame remain as they do with fashion. For Chanel, fixing this frustration started with an invitation to their show. Designed by French artist Andre Saraiva as a play on the holiday lineup posters, each guest’s name is listed, headline-style, above A-List Chanel ambassadors such as Margaret Qualley, Kristen Stewart and Margot Robbie. The result? Very Coachella. (In other words, very LA.) If Chanel’s goal was to make everyone feel like a star, it worked.

In the Paramount lot, the runway itself was set up like a football stadium, with bleachers, scoreboards and stadium lights. Chloe Sevigny, Elle Fanning, Halsey, Kris Jenner, HER, Kimora Lee Simmons, Paris Hilton and Sofia Richie were just some of the stars in attendance.

The scene was reminiscent of a street food fair despite the impeccably dressed crowd.

As the show began, a giant screen showed a short video of Chanel ambassador Alma Jodorowsky. In the clip, the actress – the granddaughter of director Alejandro Jodorowsky – is seen shedding weight in a West Coast-worthy beach look, styled and sporting an ’80s Workout Barbie look.

In fact, there were plenty of Barbie references throughout the show: pink relaxed looks, sherbet-colored tweed ensembles, and lace dresses and tote bags in ombre shades that brought to mind Pacific sunsets. (The show’s notes specifically highlighted the use of gold, “the halcyon age of cinema, empress-like actors, the bright lights of projectors and the eternal California sun.”)

From left: Margot Robbie and Rose Byrne attend the Chanel 2023/24 Cruise Show at Paramount Studios on May 9, 2023 in Los Angeles.

Two pieces featured a whimsical, pastel graphic print perfect for doll wardrobes. Another highlight was the rainbow heel light that appeared in several looks. This wasn’t a first for Chanel, as Lagerfeld used lighter heels in his 2008 and 2011 collections, but Viard’s take was nostalgic and feminine.

Of course, Robbie will take some of these clothes on the “Barbie” press tour.

Director and Chanel ambassador Sofia Coppola, who attended the show, told CNN in a phone interview the day after the show, “There’s that fun, playful side that started with the original Chanel, which was very cute and pretty.” “I feel like Virginie continues in that spirit, but in her own way.”

Sofia Coppola attends the Chanel 2023/24 Cruise Show at Paramount Studios on May 9, 2023 in Los Angeles.

The collection wasn’t all candy colors; There were black leather dresses, cut-out bodysuits, aerobics-worthy activewear and a few images that paid homage to old Hollywood glamor in a modern way. “Between the dream on the one hand and what you want to wear on the other, everything is a question of balance,” Viard explained in the show notes. The show’s soundtrack parallels these dichotomies as dance tunes from Felix the Housecat alternate with film scores from Tom Ford’s “Nocturnal Animals” and 1992’s “Basic Instinct.”

“Virginia has a background in costume design. So when you see the girls walking, there are different people,” Coppola said. She creates these different characters and I love seeing that.

After the runway came to a close, the dance floor promised in the show notes became a reality, with a surprise performance by Snoop Dogg – with an Anderson Pac cameo to boot. As the crowd sang along to “Throw Like Hot,” chopped fruit with tagine seasoning, an LA street food, Snoop almost asked the age-old question: “Who’s got that sticky-icky?” ”

The never-ending element of fashion and Hollywood’s ongoing collaborations with the next trends and trendsetters are often the most well-known age-old questions. As Coppola puts it, it’s a treat for “a more approachable approach to fashion, and fun.”

Viard's aim with the collection was to present a.

And with her carefree confidence and endless optimism, Barbie is truly the quintessential Malibu girl.

Top Image: Models walk the runway at the end of the Chanel 2023/24 Cruise show.

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