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ATLANTA – The radiation emitted by nail dryers can damage DNA and lead to cancer mutations in human cells, a study has found – and you might think that classic gel mani-pedi is worth the risk.
Some dermatologists say the findings of a study published in January in the journal Nature Communications about the dangers of ultraviolet, or UV, light from any source are not new. The results confirm why some dermatologists have changed the way they get gel manicures or stopped getting them altogether.
“The findings add to previously published data on the harmful effects of UV rays and show direct cell death and tissue damage that can lead to skin cancer,” said Dr. Julia Curtis, assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Utah. , who was not involved in the study.
“The cuticles are listed as carcinogenic for gel nail treatments and UV nail laps are the tiny cuticles of your nails,” Curtis said.
“At the Molecular and Cellular Levels”.
A type of electromagnetic radiation, ultraviolet light has a wavelength of 10 to 400 nanometers, according to the UAR Science Education Center.
Ultraviolet (315 to 400 nanometers) is the light found in sunlight that penetrates the skin and has gained popularity over the past decade, with widespread use of ultraviolet radiation. Tanning beds use 280 to 400 nanometers, while the spectrum used by nail dryers is 340 to 395 nanometers, according to a news release for the study.
“If you look at the way these devices are presented, they are safely marketed without any concerns,” co-author Ludmil Alexandrov said in a news release. “But as far as we know, no one has really studied these tools and how they affect human cells at the molecular and cellular level.” Alexandrov holds dual titles as Associate Professor of Bioengineering and Cellular and Molecular Medicine at the University of California, San Diego.
Researchers exposed cells from humans and mice to UV light, and a 20-minute session caused 20% to 30% of the cells to die. Three consecutive 20-min exposures resulted in 65% to 70% death of exposed cells. The rest of the cells suffered mitochondrial and DNA damage, resulting in the changes seen in skin cancer in humans.
‘You have no protection.’
The biggest limitation of the study is that exposing the cell lines to UV radiation is different than doing it on living people and animals, said dermatologist Dr. Julie Rusak, founder of the Rusak Dermatology Clinic in New York City. Rusak was not involved in the study.
“There’s definitely a difference when we do it in human hands,” Rusak said. “Most UV irradiation is absorbed by the surface of the skin. When you’re directly irritating the cells in a petri dish, that’s a little different. You don’t have any protection from the skin, the cornea, or the top layers. It’s also. Very direct UVA irradiation.”
But this study, taken together with previous evidence – such as reports that people with squamous cell carcinomas develop squamous cell carcinomas in conjunction with UVA dryers – definitely means we need to think more about exposing our hands and fingers. without any protection against UVA light,” said Dr. Shari Lipner, MD, associate professor of clinical dermatology and director of the nail division at NewYork-Presbyterian Hospital/Weill Cornell Medical Center. Lipner was not involved in the study.
How to reduce exposure to UV light during manicure
If you’re concerned about gel manicures but don’t want to give them up, there are some precautions you can take to mitigate the risks.
“Apply broad-spectrum sunscreens that contain zinc and titanium to the nail area, and wear cut-off UV gloves when it’s time to treat your nails,” says Curtis, who doesn’t give gel manicures. “I recommend alternatives to gel nails, such as the new wraps available online.” Gel nail wraps or strips are stick-on gel nail products that don’t always need to be set with UV nail dryers.
Some salons use LED lights, which “are supposed to give off no UV light or much, much less,” Lipner said.
Lipner gets regular manicures — which typically last seven to 10 days — not because she’s trying to avoid UV rays, but because she doesn’t like soaking the nail thinner in the acetone found in gel manicures.
“Normal hand washes are air-dried,” she added. “Gel manicures must be protected or sealed, and the polymers in the polish must be activated, which is only with UVA lights.”
If you regularly get gel manicures, Lipner recommends seeing a board-certified dermatologist to screen for any skin cancer risk and treat it before serious complications develop. Ultraviolet rays also age the skin, causing sun spots and wrinkles to appear, she says.
Lippner said there isn’t enough information for experts to gauge how often people can get gel manicures without putting themselves at risk. But Curtis recommends saving them for special occasions.
Rusak doesn’t get gel manicures often, but when she does, she uses sunscreen and gloves, she said. Applying a serum rich in antioxidants like vitamin C beforehand can help, she adds.
“As a dermatologist, I change gloves maybe three, four times with a patient. And with normal nail polish, after three, four gloves, the nail polish is gone,” Rusak said. “Gel manicures definitely have much better longevity, but is the risk of photoaging and skin cancer really worth it? Probably not.”
People with a history of skin cancer or who are photosensitive due to skin conditions or albinism should be more careful about taking medications or immunosuppressants, experts said. But regardless of your risk, dermatologists urge CNN to take precautions.
“Unfortunately, complete protection is not possible, so my best recommendation is to avoid these dryers altogether,” says Dr. Joshua Zeichner, M.D., an associate professor of dermatology at Mount Sinai Hospital in New York City.
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